Summary:
Why Pool Heater Winterization Matters in Nassau and Suffolk County
Long Island’s climate demands attention to timing – the best window for pool heater closing in Nassau and Suffolk County typically falls in mid to late October when nighttime temperatures consistently drop below 50 degrees. You can’t afford to wait until the first freeze, because once temperatures hit freezing, any water left in your plumbing lines can cause expensive damage overnight.
Freeze damage happens fast and gets expensive quickly. Water expands when it freezes, so any water left in your plumbing lines, pump, filter, or heater can crack pipes, destroy equipment, and damage your pool structure. Single freeze events can cause thousands in damage – cracked pump housings, burst plumbing lines, damaged pool surfaces, and destroyed filtration equipment.
What makes this particularly frustrating is that insurance typically doesn’t cover freeze damage from improper winterization, leaving you facing major out-of-pocket repairs. Proper winterization costs a fraction of what freeze damage repairs will run you.
How to Drain Your Gas Pool Heater Properly
Gas pool heaters require specific winterization steps that go beyond simply draining visible water. The process starts with closing gas valves – both the internal valve and the primary valve on the gas line adjacent to the heater. Most commonly this will be a brass ball valve with a handle, where parallel positioning indicates open and perpendicular positioning indicates closed.
Draining requires accessing multiple drain points. Raypak heaters, for example, have a drain plug on the front inlet-outlet header, and newer models include the ProTek Shield module that should be removed as well. Where possible, disconnect the plumbing unions and tip the heater toward the plumbing, then remove cabinet panels on the side opposite the water piping to access the return header drain plug.
The challenge with different manufacturers lies in their drain plug designs. Plastic plug heaters like Pentair or Hayward are easier to winterize than Jandy heaters which use brass drain cocks. The brass ones present problems because the heater case and plug are made from different metals, encouraging corrosion. Since the threads are so fine, this can cause difficulty removing the plug, and brass will strip easily, requiring a 9/16″ wrench rather than adjustable tools.
Professional winterization includes blowing out all water lines using specialty equipment like Cyclone Blowers that provide much more air flow than standard shop vacs. Almost all water will blow out in the first few seconds, but we continue running the blower through the heater for a minimum of 5 minutes, then blow through in the opposite direction for another 5 minutes to ensure complete water removal.
Heat Pump Winterization: Following Manufacturer Guidelines
Heat pump winterization is critical because freeze damage is NOT covered under product warranties. Water expansion during freezing can severely damage the heat pump condenser and water circuit, making proper winterization essential. The process varies depending on your heat exchanger type, with some models being more challenging to winterize than others.
For standard heat exchangers, the process involves disconnecting power and turning off the circulation pump, removing the front access panel to confirm the heat exchanger type, disconnecting plumbing unions to enable self-draining, allowing water to drain completely, then loosely reconnecting plumbing unions to prevent debris ingress.
Titanium and Cupronickel tube-in-tube exchangers are the most challenging to properly winterize. These require flushing with a garden hose sealed with clean rags, running water through the exchanger for 2-3 minutes until fresh water exits the out-port, then using compressed air at approximately 50 psig to push all residual water from the circuit, continuing until water stops exiting the outlet.
Pool heat pumps can withstand the coldest winter weather with no problems, and it’s unnecessary to move your heat pump from its installed location for winter. In fact, it’s recommended that you leave it in place to avoid damaging the unit. The only precaution necessary is making sure the heat exchanger is drained of all pool water.
Pool Heater Bypass Systems: Your Winter Protection Strategy
Installing a bypass allows you to isolate the pool heat pump in winter while still allowing water to circulate around the pool water circuit to prevent freezing. The bypass can also be used to adjust the water flow through the heat pump by slightly opening or closing the bypass valve.
A manual 3-way valve can be installed to bypass some water flow and limit the flow through the heater. When a heater is bypassed with manual valves, it’s important to shut off the heater because the pressure switch will still be activated and the heater could run with no flow. When in bypass, the power should also be shut off to the heater, and it’s best to install a heater flow switch in series with the pressure switch.
Bypass Installation and Winter Operation
Bypass installation is relatively simple, requiring a 3-way diverter valve on the heater input line, a short length of PVC to connect to a T on the heater output line, and a check valve between the T and the heater output. This setup provides crucial protection during winter months and gives you control over water flow during the swimming season.
When in bypass, the heater’s water flow switch (the pressure switch) should open, and the heater will not run. An open bypass is okay for summer months because we don’t use the pool heater then. However, we want that bypass to be closed in winter months so that the heater can work. If your pool heater’s issue is an open bypass, the simple fix is to close the bypass.
The conventional wisdom is to use a zoned bypass system to take the heater offline as needed to protect it from poor quality water. Taking a heater offline is best done preemptively, like for planned superchlorination. When done after a problem is discovered, you want to limit how long the heater sits stagnant, and any period longer than 12 to 24 hours should consider draining or blowing out the water from inside the heater.
Professional installation ensures your bypass system functions correctly and provides the protection your expensive heating equipment needs during Long Island’s challenging winter conditions.
Protecting Pool Heaters from Freeze Damage: Best Practices
Different manufacturers have specific requirements – Raypak, Rheem, Jandy, Hayward and Pentair each have particular procedures for their heater models. Following manufacturer guidelines isn’t just recommended, it’s essential for maintaining warranty coverage and ensuring proper protection.
Proper reinstallation procedures matter too. Brass drain cocks should be reinstalled after winterizing the heater. If you leave the brass drain cocks out over the winter, rust will form on the exposed threads of the heater, making a water tight seal much more difficult in the spring. Plastic drain plugs from heaters can be left out for the winter similar to all other winterizing plugs on your equipment.
After completing the winterization process, be sure to reconnect the unions to prevent an access point for rodents to get into your heater or plumbing lines in the off season. We include complete rodent deterrence treatment on all heaters, using proven methods to eliminate expensive headaches that rodent damage can cause, greatly increasing the life expectancy and reliability of your product.
The complexity of these procedures and the potential for costly mistakes makes professional winterization a smart investment for most Nassau and Suffolk County pool owners, especially in areas like North Shore communities including Oyster Bay, Northport, and Port Washington where harsh winter conditions demand thorough preparation.
Professional Pool Heater Winterization in Nassau and Suffolk County
Long Island’s climate doesn’t give you room for error. Once temperatures hit freezing, any water left in your plumbing lines can cause expensive damage overnight. If you have a pool heater, you might be able to extend the season slightly, but most Long Island pools should be winterized by Halloween to be safe.
The damage from improper winterization often isn’t visible until spring when you try to open your pool, leaving you facing major repairs right when you want to start enjoying your pool again. Professional winterization eliminates this risk entirely while ensuring your equipment will be ready to perform when you need it next season.
When you’re ready to protect your pool heater investment from Long Island’s harsh winter weather, we have the expertise and equipment to winterize your gas and heat pump heaters correctly. Our comprehensive approach serves pool owners throughout Nassau and Suffolk County with the thorough protection your heating equipment deserves.
